Break In Procedure

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Break In Procedure

Post by joel352 on Mon 6 May 2013 - 21:49

So I have been looking in to the break in procedure for bikes and there is some very different answeres on the topic. Some say 300 miles some say 600 some say 1000 miles. Hyosung say 1500 miles and the a service.

First 500 miles at half throttel, short distance verying the gears and rev position not too high in revs.
Up to 1000 miles up to 3/4 throttel, varying the gears and rev position not too high revs.
Up to 1500 miles full throttel acceptable but not all time then service.

Is this extreme or would you say its acurate.
Some people say service at 500 miles then at 1000 then at 1500 but that seams extreme too.

What would you say is OK. Very Happy
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Re: Break In Procedure

Post by Admin on Mon 6 May 2013 - 22:57

joel352 wrote:First 500 miles at half throttel, short distance verying the gears and rev position not too high in revs.
Up to 1000 miles up to 3/4 throttel, varying the gears and rev position not too high revs.

Anything goes after 1000 miles Wink

This is what I have always been told to follow with any new Jap bikes I have bought , though when I bought my Hyo the mechanic at the dealer told me to keep it under 6000 RPM for the 1st 500 miles ( which was also 1st scheduled service ) then after that , anything goes ............

To be fair , on the 650 , 4000 RPM in top gear equates to 70 -75 MPH anyway , so it's not so much the restriction on top speed but the acceleration Rolling Eyes

Next service in the schedule after that ( IIRC without checking my handbook Very Happy ) was 4000 miles or 1 year which ever came first .......

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Re: Break In Procedure

Post by joel352 on Tue 7 May 2013 - 6:36

Cheers baz. It thought the other seamed a bit extreame.
Do you get like a book or something that needs to be stamped for your first service for your warrenty.
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Re: Break In Procedure

Post by Commuter on Tue 7 May 2013 - 19:13

I ran my 250 in according to Nightingales for the first 500 miles. Dont let it labour in any gears, dont do more than 55 in top. Have the first service and then introduce a few short bursts of acceleration but keep the top speed down to 60 after the first service : increasing the length of the bursts of acceleration gradually over the next 500 miles whilst allowing the top speed to increase to 70 over those same 500 miles after the first service. I religiously checked fuel consumption during this period and found that as the engine loosened up, the fuel consumption improved. The fuel consumption actually stopped improving at about 1600 miles. I put this down to the dificulty of running bikes in when the oil is of such good quality.
Incidentally, when I took the bike for its first service, I didnt believe the manual about checking the valve shims and so I booby trapped the bike: I put a small blob of black paint over the rocker cover gasket in One place... sure enough when the service was "complete" the paint seal had NOT been broken. I was later to find out that the sump filter mesh had never seen the light of day either. (I have posted an article on how to get the filter mesh out on this site). There was an article about how often to inspect the valve shims. I decided to ignore the book completely and routinely compression test the bike when I change the oil. As soon as the compression shows down,I check the shims. A friend with suzuki gsxrs has always dont this and has NEVER reshimmed the valves. As a curiosity, he had some piston rings fitted since he started to burn a bit of oil, so he checked the valve shims at 43,000 miles while he had the engine stripped... all within limits. There's a link between suzuki and hyo and i wouldnt mind betting that hyo shims and suzuki shims if not identical , are made at the same place.
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Re: Break In Procedure

Post by Commuter on Tue 7 May 2013 - 19:21

By the way... I forgot one very useful piece of information: When you can, ( when the road is empty) Take short bursts of acceleration followed immediately by leaving the bike in gear and just snapping the throttle shut.Allowing the bike to slow down on its engine with it still in gear. The rally boys taught me that trick. The acceleration helps to wear things in and then the immediate deceleration allows a good quantity of oil to circulate around all those hot little bits of engine that have just been working hard. The reason for doing this on an empty road is that it pisses off the cagers to follow someone who is running an engine in using this method.
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Re: Break In Procedure

Post by joel352 on Tue 7 May 2013 - 21:12

So it looks like its gona take a bit.
From person to person they all do it differently.

So im gona do
1 First 500 miles.
No high speeds
No long gears
No more than half throttel
No high revs
Let it warm up fully
No very long distances.

Service

2 Next 500 miles
Wont go above 70
Staying longer in gears
More throttel but not fully open
Some short bursts of open acceleration Followed by engine break
Increasing speed in last 250 miles

Service (Just because im paranoid)

Then just take it easy gradually giving it a bit up to 1500 then I will then accept the bike fully broken in.

So what do you think. Anything need changing/adding, or am I being to obsessive.
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Re: Break In Procedure

Post by Commuter on Tue 7 May 2013 - 22:34

You have just about covered everything there. Left nothing to chance. I was running it in doing 37 mile stints because thats how far i had to travel to work. It didnt take a long time to run in doing about 400 miles a week Very Happy
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Re: Break In Procedure

Post by joel352 on Wed 8 May 2013 - 8:20

Well my work is about 2 to 3 miles away but there is arround 6 different ways to get there. So il just take the scenic route. Very Happy
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Re: Break In Procedure

Post by joel352 on Wed 8 May 2013 - 10:19

Another thing. My dad says I should service it at 500 miles, 1000 miles and 1500 miles. I am going to service it at 500 and a 1000 anyways. Is it worth it to have it serviced at 1500 miles. Also should I use fuel like super unleaded in the process of breaking in.
I will be putting the exhaust on the bike at 1500 miles as well.
Also is there anything I should be looking out for when braking in the bike.
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Re: Break In Procedure

Post by Commuter on Wed 8 May 2013 - 18:10

If you are paying someone to service your bike, I would learn how to change the oil and filter yourself since that is all I can see that they did with my bike when they "serviced" it. In order to keep you warranty, stick strictly to paying for services when the book says so and carry out any additional services yourself.
Super unleaded is of no use whatsoever to you for this bike. Super unleaded allows you to run more ignition advance and a higher compression ratio, neither of which are you ggoing to be doing whilst running it in.
New hyosungs come with electrical connectors which are very good but could do with contact grease smearing on the terminals of all the contacts. Contact grease is silicon grease or petroleum jelly ( vasylene). Open up a wire connector coat the terminals inside with contact grease and then put the connector back together again and move onto the next connector until they are all done. Always do one connector at a time and then you can get the wiring wrong. Finally, do not froget to put contact grease on the battery terminals if some kind dealer hasnt already done so. Doing this will stop your wiring terminals from corroding and will make your electrical system more reliable especially when it starts to rain.
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Re: Break In Procedure

Post by joel352 on Wed 8 May 2013 - 18:39

Ah no super unleaded then. It was just a though I had. With the contact grease will just standard vaseline do. My dad mentioned something about the conectors and measing with them but I thought it was just an excuse to go routing through he bike and complane how shit it is Wink
With the services I will be taking it to startright and they let me watch when they serviced my 125 after I had bad cases with other places so I know that they will be doing my service correctley.
The other thing with the warrenty is there like a book that you get or something. I have never had something brand new and shiney.
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Re: Break In Procedure

Post by Commuter on Wed 8 May 2013 - 18:52

Vaseline will do the job perfectly.. Yes when you get the bike, they will give you a little book in which they can put the dealer stamp to show that the bike has been serviced. If you can spare the time to watch the servicing being done then all well and good. I bought some spares for mine from startright. They werent the cheapest but I always thought they were most fair.
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Re: Break In Procedure

Post by joel352 on Wed 8 May 2013 - 19:04

Yeh startright can be costly but I do agree they are fair. I remeber taking bike in to have a look at my leakey forks. They said I needed some seals and oil. I got hem repaired them myself and one still leaked. Took bike back and found the fork stantion had a pit in it. So I got a second hand leg from them just so I could take the stantion as my forks were gold and this one was black but cost me £150 but they gave me seals, oil and a key ring for free for my troubls which I rhoight was fantastic.
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Re: Break In Procedure

Post by joel352 on Thu 9 May 2013 - 21:32

Quick question but it may sound dumb but I need clarification.

Was in pound shop getting some cans of coke (3 for a £1), and there was a big mack of tub I can only describe as the size of a butter tub full of petrolium jelly for a £1.

Would this be as good as using vaseline for the conector blocks coz vaseline is expensive and a giant tub for a quid seems a better idea.
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Re: Break In Procedure

Post by Commuter on Fri 10 May 2013 - 18:48

petroleum jelly is petroleum jelly, your electrics really will not be worried what brand it is Joel Very Happy
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Re: Break In Procedure

Post by joel352 on Fri 10 May 2013 - 21:25

Tar pal. I know but with it just being a quid I was just a little sceptical
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